Surfing (as always)

I went out surfing yesterday after work, the waves were huge! (At least for me they were). By the time I had paddled out, I was so freakin exhausted that it took my forever to catch a wave. I actually only ended up catching 2 in the hour and a half I was out there, but they were awesome. My last wave I caught, rode it until it reformed, rode that, then rode the white water right onto the beach where i then hopped off my board. Incidentally, I really impressed these two guys with my oober cool dismount (they had riddin in and fallen off their boards).